The dining table is tucked underneath the desk when not in use; simply wheel it out when you have friends over for dinner.

QUICK PROJECT GUIDE
Hard labour 4/10
Skill level 5/10 (requires use of power tools, fine measuring)
Time needed about four hours

Shopping list
• three doors cut to: two 760mm (desk sides), one 1700mm (desktop), one 1600mm (tabletop)
• two 1800 x 96 x 96mm pine planks cut to: four 675mm (table legs)
• two 1800 x 32 x 32mm pine planks cut to: four ±720mm (end filler pieces)
Other items
• wood glue
• ±thirty 80mm chipboard screws
• sixteen 16mm pan head screws
• wood filler, primer, paint
• fixing plates
• uni-directional castors
Tools
• drill, combination countersink drill bit
• pencil and measuring tape
• combination square or trisquare and a straight edge
• paintbrush or foam roller
• jigsaw
• circular saw
• G-clamps

Construct the desk

1 Measure and mark two of the doors at 1700mm (desktop) and 1600mm (table top). Mark the third door from each end and cut away the middle section to give two 760mm sections. Use a tri-square and a straight edge to ensure the lines you draw are perpendicular to the edges.

2 Use G-clamps to hold a straight edge in position as a guide for the circular saw when cutting the doors.

3 Cut four sections of 32 x 2mm pine approximately 720mm long to inset at the cut ends. First remove some of the corrugated cardboard to make room for the insets. Apply wood glue and tap into position. Use G-clamps and offcut planks to hold these in position while the glue dries.

4 Use a tri-square or a corner clamp to make sure the two 760mm door sections are positioned at perpendicular angles below the ends of the 1700mm section (desktop). Place the original ends under the tabletop rather than the ends with filler pieces inserted. First drill five countersunk pilot holes along the ends, then use the 80mm chipboard screws to fix these in position. REMEMBER to apply wood glue to the joints before screwing them together.

5 Fix two 45º offcut sections to the ‘back’ corners of the desk to prevent any lateral movement. Fix to the wall with wall anchors for additional stability.
Construct the table

6 Mark the positions for the legs on the underside of the 1600mm tabletop. Measure 32mm from the sides and 64mm from the ends, and use a tri-square to accurately draw out a 96 x 96mm square, as shown. Repeat in each corner.

7 Drill a 10mm pilot hole inside the square, then use the jigsaw to neatly cut out the inside.

8 Glue 96mm sections of 32mm pine inside these holes, against the framework at the ends to support the legs on the inside of the door.

9 Apply some glue and then position the ends of the 675 x 96 x 96mm table legs inside the holes created in step 7. Drill one pilot hole (in line with the leg) along the side and two at the end, and screw together. Use a tri-square to ensure that the legs are fixed perpendicularly.

10 Fix castors to ends of legs using 16mm pan head screws. Fill holes with wood filler. When dry, sand all surfaces lightly, including the edges. Then add a coat of multi-surface primer or universal undercoat followed by the colour of your choice. We used a white Plascon multisurface primer, followed by two coats of Plascon Velvaglo to the desk (white) and to the table (black).

Castor offer mobility – the table can easily be moved to where it is needed.

Project notes
• We used standard 2032 x 815 x 40mm internal doors for the construction of the basic framework of the desk and for the table top of the dining table. This is an affordable and lightweight option to create ‘chunky’ and stylish looking table tops.
• These doors have an internal pine framework that is clad with hardboard; the space inbetween is filled with corrugated cardboard. Because we cut the ends, we needed to recreate the ends with an inset filler piece.
• Solid 1800 x 96 x 96mm pine planks were used for the table legs.