QUICK PROJECT GUIDE
Hard labour 4/10
Skill level 5/10
Time needed about four hours
Finished size ±450mm (H) x 650mm (W) x 1500mm (L)

Shopping list
• One 1800 x 610 x 20mm laminated pine (tabletop) cut to: one 1500mm length
• One 2400 x 70 x 44mm pine (leg structure) cut to: four 516mm & two 158mm
• One 1800 x 70 x 44mm pine (leg structure) cut to: one 1212mm
• Two 2400 x 44 x 12mm pine (table border) cut to: two 1524mm & two 610mm

Plus
• wood glue
• mosaic tile adhesive
• tile grout
• mosaic tile sheets
• 50mm chipboard screws
• 20mm chipboard screws
• primer and paint
• paintbrush or foam roller

Tools
• drill
• 10mm spade bit
• combination countersink bit
• pencil
• measuring tape
• tri-square and straight edge
• angle grinder and masonry cutting disc
• 5mm notched trowel or adhesive applicator/grout squeegee
• handsaw and mitre box

Get started

1. Use the pencil, measuring tape and tri-square to mark the 516 x 70 x 44mm lengths of pine at the required angles. Measure and mark a line 30mm in from the ends of these four lengths. Then draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite end of the line. Do this on all four lengths. Now use the handsaw and mitre box to cut both ends of each length at this angle. Do the same with the two 158mm lengths, but have each end taper at opposite angles.

2.Place the pieces on a smooth surface or a plastic sheet and use wood glue to fix the 486mm legs to the 158mm crosspiece and allow to dry.

3. Once the components are glued, use the 10mm spade bit to drill a 10-15mm hole in the underside of the crosspiece angled towards the legs. Then use the 50mm chipboard screws to fix the leg framework.

4. Mark a line midway along the crosspiece then use a drill and combination countersink or screw bit to drill two countersunk pilot holes. Then glue and screw the leg frames to the 1212mm support, as shown.

5. Fix 44 x 12mm lengths to the edge of the tabletop using the 20mm chipboard screws.

TIP Use a couple of offcuts to create the correct overlap along the top side when fixing these strips in place.

6. Place the tabletop on the leg framework, line it up corrrectly and then fix it in place using the 50mm chipboard screws.

REMEMBER Drill countersunk pilot holes first.

7. Mark out the pattern that you wish to create and then lay your tiles out to one side accordingly.

8. Now use the angle grinder and masonry cutting disc to cut each of the mosaic tile sheets diagonally across, as shown. Place the sheets on an offcut piece of timber to avoid damaging your work surface.

9. Mix the adhesive according to the instructions and apply to the tabletop using a notched trowel.

10. Carefully lay the cut tile sheets on the adhesive in the predetermined positions. Once you are happy that the design works and all spaces are equal, press the tiles down gently. Allow to dry.

11. Mix the grout and then use the squeegee to ‘press’ it into all the crevices. The squeegee also helps to remove excess grout, making cleaning the tiles afterwards much easier. Allow to dry and then wipe away any excess with a damp cloth. Lightly sand the timber elements and then apply a coat of primer followed by two coats of water-based enamel to finish.

• Remember you can scale the proportions of the table to suit the overall proportions of the room and its furniture; simply amend the cutting list accordingly.
• We used 610 x 22mm laminated pine shelving for the tabletop.
• We used 70 x 44mm pine for our base framework and edged the tabletop with 44 x 12mm pine to frame the tilework.

Source: Home magazine