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  • DIY

    Modern mover

    June 28, 2014

    Quick project guide
    Hard labour 5/10
    Skill level 5/10
    Time needed Four hours
    Finished size ±1200 (H) x 450 (W) x 600mm (D)

    Shopping list
    • twenty 2400 x 44 x 22mm pine cut to: nineteen 1112mm (table top slats) thirty-eight 430mm (side slats) three 600mm (side and top supports)
    • 8mm wooden dowel The crisp lines and repetitive use of the material make a bold statement.

    Plus
    • cold glue
    • 75mm cut screws
    • 50mm cut screws
    • 120 grit sandpaper
    • wood sealer (or varnish)
    • paintbrush

    Tools
    • cordless and corded drill, 3mm, 8mm drill bits
    • tri-square
    • jigsaw
    • hacksaw blade
    • mitre clamp(s)
    • pencil
    • measuring tape
    • sander

    Get started:
    TIP Place an offcut piece underneath so that the timber does not split out underneath. Make sure to drill straight so that the longer screws do not veer off at angles and end up splitting through the planks to be fixed.

    1 Cut the 2400mm lengths to size, then mark 44mm-wide bands across one end of all thirty-eight 430mm lengths (side slats). Then drill a pair of 3mm pilot holes in each plank and countersink the holes to a depth of about 5mm using the 8mm bit, as shown.

    2 Now mark a 44x22mm ‘cutout’ midway along the length of one of the 1112mm pieces, and use the jigsaw to make a neat cut. Then use this as a template to mark and saw each of the 18 other lengths that make up the tabletop.

    3 Make nineteen U-shapes by adding a dab of cold glue and using the 75mm screws to join the shorter 430mm lengths over each end of the 19 table top (1112mm) lengths, as shown.

    TIP Use a mitre clamp to ensure that all your joins are fixed at 90º.

    NOTE Drive the screws about 5mm below the surface to facilitate dowelling later.

    4 Place the three 600mm lengths side by side, flat side down, and start from one side,measuring and marking 22mm bands 10mm apart to indicate where the side slates attach to the top and legs of each U-shape. Then drill and countersink pilot holes.

    5 Use two U-shapes to and the 50mm screws to make up the outer frame. Fix the middle support within the cutouts (step 2) in place first, then repeat with the other two slats under the legs.

    6 Screw all the U-shapes into the three supports in the outer frame first, tap the dowel into the holes and use the hacksaw blade to cut it flush with the surface.

    TO FINISH Sand all sharp corners and over the dowels, then apply a primer or varnish to all the surfaces. Once dry, apply one or two topcoats in the colour(s) of your choice.

    TIP Use a 10mm-wide spacer to ensure all the lengths are equally spaced .

    Project notes
    • Every coffee table will be a little different; adapt your design and material choices for any of the three shown to further suit your style.
    • Draw as detailed a plan as possible to help draw up your materials/cutting list; take standard sheet sizes and timber dimensions into account when designing to eliminate unnecessary cutting and wastage.
    • Paint yours if you like, though we opted to bring out the beauty of raw wood – even pine, which is making a serious style comeback.

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