The humble pine workbench continues to offer opportunities for creative re-interpretation.

Quick project guide
Hard labour 3/10
Skill level 5/10
Time needed about three hours
Finished size ±900 (H) x 1500 (W) x 590mm (D)

Shopping list

• 1800 x 70 x 70mm pine cut to: one 700mm (additional support)
• 4mm glass cut to: two 640 x 505mm two 640 x 708mm
• 0.8mm steel cut to: 1560 x 650mm
• gas hob (optional; ours is from Graham’s Appliances & Refrigeration)
• for chopping board (optional): 2400 x 70 x 32mm meranti cut to: six 400mm pieces

Plus

• wood glue
• 75mm castors
• clear varnish (aerosol)
• mirror screws
• 16mm chipboard screws
• 60mm chipboard screws (for chopping board project)
• primer and paint; we used Plascon Multi-Surface Primer, followed by two coats of Plascon Velvaglo
• paintbrush or enamel roller

Tools

• drill and 10mm drill bit
• wire brush attachment
• sander
• angle grinder and steel cutting disc
• jigsaw
• 3mm drill bit
• tri-square
• pencil
• measuring tape
• G-clamps
• straight edge

Before A standard (1 500mm) pine workbench is reasonably affordable and available from timber merchants and hardware stores countrywide – we got ours from Timbercity.

Let’s get started!

1. OPTIONAL Cut out the opening for the gas hob. Use the measuring tape, pencil and tri-square to measure and mark it out, then drill a 10mm hole inside each corner and use the jigsaw to cut out the opening.
NOTE Position the cutout within the workbench framework.

2. Turn the workbench onto its top, measure and mark 75mm from the ends of the legs. Then cut 75mm off the ends of each leg before fixing the castors, using the 16mm chipboard screws.

3. Add the 700 x 70 x 70mm pine section to the existing framework, midway between the two ‘front’ posts, and fix to the bottom shelf brace using 60mm chipboard screws, as shown. Then fix it to the inside of the top frame, making sure it’s perpendicular. Now prime and paint the entire structure.

4.  Position the steel cover on the worktop, then mark out the position of the cutout for the gas hob from below.

5. Use the angle grinder and steel cutting disc to cut out the opening.
REMEMBER Eye protection and gloves are a must!

6. Drill holes at the corners of the steel cover then fix it to the surface using mirror screws.
TIP Use angle brackets to ‘wrap around’ and keep the sharp steel corners covered.

7.  Use a wire brush attachment to polish the entire surface. Then coat the surface with a clear varnish (aerosol) to prevent oxidation.

8. Paste translucent vinyl onto the glass panels, using a soft cloth to smooth it on as you slowly push the backing along.

9. Position the panels, mark the position of the holes, then remove and drill pilot holes. Fit the grommets into the glass, then fix the glass to the frame and add the chrome domes.
NOTE Don’t fasten the screws too tightly – rather leave some ‘play’ to avoid damaging the glass.

Project notes

• We used 70 x 70mm pine for the additional centre frame support onto which the front two glass panels are fixed.
• We used 0.8mm steel to clad the worktop; our steel merchant notched the corners and bent the edges (30mm in on all sides) to create the cladding for the worktop.
• We added 75mm castors.
• We fitted a two-plate gas hob.

NOTE We used ordinary glass to save on costs. But the vinyl cover is for both aesthetics and further safety; it will hold the glass together in the event of it breaking. However, we do recommend that you use safety glass instead.

REMEMBER When ordering your glass, ask that the holes for the mirror screws be drilled as close to the corners as possible (about 30mm). We used two separate glass panels across the front of the unit for easy handling, which also meant that we had to add an additional piece of timber.